Screen Goo 2.0 Application Instructions

Roll or Spray?

Given how flat and smooth Screen Goo 2.0 lays after application, there’s no real performance benefit to a sprayed application on a flat surface. In most circumstances involving a flat, two-dimensional surface, rolling will be the preferred application method.

However, the world isn’t flat and projections on three dimensional surfaces are increasingly common. Hemispheres, compound curves, 3D models and more are all becoming popular grounds for projection.

Since a roller won’t cover these types of shapes, spraying is the only application option for incorporating all of Screen Goo’s benefits to non-2D surfaces. Screen Goo 2.0 has been engineered to spray beautifully and competent, practiced sprayers will achieve brilliant results.

Let’s Roll!

For new construction with drywall: please have your drywall contractor perform all the steps: taping, mudding, sanding and skim coating, required to create a Level 5 drywall finish but instruct them NOT to prime the surface.

For existing painted surfaces: if you know that your wall was painted with a water-based latex paint and that it’s acceptably smooth (no visible texture under bright light from the nearest viewing position), making sure that the surface is clean and grease-free is the only prep required.

If you’re not sure what type of paint is on the wall to be coated, you should apply a coat of a urethane modified acrylic primer (UMA by XIM) to the surface prior to starting your Goo application.

The Technique

Pour some Screen Goo into your paint tray. Dip the roller into the paint reservoir in your paint tray and then squeeze out the excess paint on the sloped and ridged part of the tray. Starting at either side of the surface to be coated (right handed folks usually start on the left), paint two full height vertical columns, side by side with about 2 inches of overlap, dipping lightly into the tray again if more paint is needed. Start your columns at the mid-height point and work upwards to the top before working back down again.

After you’ve painted your first two columns you’ll want to finish them off using a back-rolling approach. To start back rolling, your roller should be as ”empty” of paint as possible. Start at the very top of your surface and, using just enough pressure to keep the roller turning, roll all the way to the bottom of the surface WITHOUT STOPPING OR PICKING UP THE ROLLER.

Proceed in this manner all the way across your surface. When you’re done, have a look at the surface from the left and the right at 45 degree angles. If the coating doesn’t look uniform, repeat the back-rolling process all the way across the surface starting from the side you finished on: i.e., if you painted from left to right, do your final back roll from right to left.


Rolling Instructions – For Classic, +20 and Basic Screen Goo

Click on photo to see KBK Rolling Screen Goo video on YouTube

A new video series is being produced in parts to attempt to educate Screen Goo users on the various aspects of Rolling and Spraying of Screen Goo.

Here is Part 1 – Screen Goo Rolling Tips

Click on photo to see video on YouTube

See how it is done right!

Here is a typical properly executed Screen Goo rolling job done by the folks at Watten Painting shown here in another attempt to educate Screen Goo users on the various aspects of Rolling Screen Goo.

Click on photo to take you to the story

Step 1 - Choose the right roller: We suggest using a 1/4 inch nap, wool and polyester blend roller. Choose a roller whose label indicates that it is for smooth and gloss surfaces. We do NOT recommend using foam rollers.

Inspecting a primed surface for irregularities before applying Screen Goo

Step 2 – Surface Preparation and Determination of Screen Size: Screen Goo can be applied to any smooth paintable
surface. Many materials other than the products listed below can be used successfully. For best results the surface should be flat and smooth. If the surface to be coated is not smooth, it should be sanded down and wiped off prior to applying the Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Porous surfaces such as drywall, gyproc, and wood based materials such as plywood, particle board, MDF, should be sealed with a flat, white latex primer prior to applying Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Drywall surfaces should be finished to a minimum Level 4 standard when applying our matte coatings (Reference White, High Contrast, Max Contrast); Level 5 finish is preferable and highly recommended. You can download a document defining levels of dry wall finish here. Colored surfaces should also be primed with a flat, white latex.

We recommend mounting your projector in its permanent location before determining the actual screen dimensions. Once the projector is mounted you should project an image onto your surface and adjust for image geometry. The width of the image at the top of the screen should be the same as the width at the bottom and likewise the sides of the image should have the same height. Finally you should check that the image is level and square in the corners. Now you are ready to mask off the area you will be coating with a high quality painters tape. If you intend to create a border around your screen you should allow an extra inch around all sides so that the coated surface will be slightly larger than your projected image

Step 3 - Reflective Coat:Rolling this product is a bit trickier than rolling normal latex paint. This means that attention must be paid to application method and roller handling. Some users report improved results with a light sanding of the Reflective Coat; we see no disadvantage to this, but only the Reflective Coat layers should be sanded and then only after allowing for a minimum 24 hour drying period prior to sanding.

Place about 200mL of Reflective Coat in the paint tray to do your first coat. Dab some on one side of the roller, rotate and dab some on the other. Squeeze out any excess coating by rolling on the slanted portion of the paint tray. Don’t press too hard. Depending on your screen height, you should have enough paint on the roller to complete approximately two adjacent vertical columns.

Roll the coating in columns using vertical strokes covering the full height of the screen. The coating density should be just sufficient to cover the underlying surface. After the first column is complete, apply the second full column, adjacent to the first, with a slight overlap between the columns. The roller should now have very little paint left on it. You’re now ready to do your first finishing stroke. Center the roller above the overlap, making sure the open end of the roller (which receives less pressure) is facing the just coated side of your screen surface, so that the overlapping layer will have a lightly feathered edge. The wire support side of the roller mechanism naturally presses harder on the surface of the screen, so it should be oriented to the least recently coated side of the screen. Using just enough pressure to get the roller turning, do an uninterrupted stroke from just above the top edge of the screen to just below the bottom edge. It’s important not to stop the roller during the finishing stroke as this could cause marks in the finished surface. Following the same procedure, roll two adjacent columns at a time with finishing strokes in between until you’ve covered the entire viewing surface. Allow the Reflective Coat to dry thoroughly (typically 1-1.5 hrs.) and then repeat the above procedures for the second layer of Reflective Coat.

Even after following these instructions to the letter, your wet surface will have a streaky appearance and the overlaps between the columns will be clearly visible. THIS IS NORMAL! While we realize that this is a bit counter-intuitive, LEAVE IT ALONE and the surface will dry to a uniform consistency and color. Resist the temptation to go back over your work because re-rolling the coating after it has begun to dry (about 2-3 minutes after application) will cause textural differences, potentially resulting in permanent streaks.

Close up of a fresh Finish (Top) Coat application over the dry Reflective (Base) Coat layers. A visible texture is desired.

The following before and after photos show what you can expect a correctly applied wet surface to look like and the uniformity of the same surface after it has dried. There’s also a screen shot of an image projected on that same surface.

Before Drying


After Drying

Screen Shot

Step 4 - Finish Coat: After allowing the Reflective Coat to dry, carefully repeat the above procedures to apply two coats of Finish Coat. Very important! The finishing strokes should be done no more than 2-3 minutes after the original paint strokes in a given area. Attempting finishing strokes after this time period has elapsed will cause the appearance of vertical streaks. This is the result of a difference in texture caused by re-rolling coating which has begun to dry! UNLIKE Reflective Coat, THE Finish Coat LAYERS MUST NOT BE SANDED OR ABRADED UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.

Step 5 - Ultra Black: Your Goo Kit includes a 250mL jar of Ultra Black, a specially formulated light absorptive coating, and a foam applicator brush. This is to permit the creation of an optional black Close up of a fresh Finish (Top) Coat application over the dry Reflective (Base) Coat layers. A visible texture is desired. border around your screen. The simplest method of creating a border is to purchase pre-cut wood trim at your local hardware store, coat it with the Ultra Black and install it around your Goo viewing surface. If you wish to apply Ultra Black directly to your wall, use a good quality painter’s tape and mask out an area 2-3 inches around the perimeter of the viewing area and then apply the Ultra Black with the provided foam applicator. The Finish Coat surface must be thoroughly dry before applying masking tape (minimum 24 hrs). After allowing 4-6 hours for the Ultra Black to dry, slowly and carefully remove the painter’s tape covering the border.

Curing Times: The product can be used immediately after rolling or spraying and will look very good after the first day, but its performance will continue to improve for up to 3 months by which time The acrylic mixtures should be fully cured and clarified. Following these instructions when applying Screen Goo will give you a uniform high-performance screen surface that will look fantastic for many years to come. Sit back and enjoy, you won’t believe your eyes!


Spraying Instructions:

Surface preparation: Please ensure that the surface to be coated is clean and grease-free. The smoother the surface the better finished product will be.

Porous surfaces such as drywall, gyproc, and wood based materials such as plywood, particle board, MDF, should be sealed with a flat, white latex primer prior to applying Screen Goo basecoat. Coloured surfaces should also be primed with a flat, white latex.

User preparation: Experienced spray painters will find Screen Goo quite easy to work with. If you've never used a paint sprayer before, please consider doing a rolled application instead. If you'd like this to be your first venture into paint spraying, may we suggest that you take the time to familiarize yourself with your equipment by experimenting with some less expensive coatings in inconspicuous areas, prior to attempting your Goo masterpiece!

Suggested equipment: We recommend using an HVLP and/or pressurized cup spray system employing a gun with a 1.5-2mm tip diameter. The specific type of gun is less important than the user's familiarity with it. It is very important that none of the spray equipment be contaminated with solvent-based coatings or cleaning agents as these will ruin the water-based Screen Goo coatings.

Reflective coat: Screen Goo Reflective coat should be thinned 5-10% by volume with filtered or distilled water prior to a sprayed application. If using a pressurized cup system, set the air/paint mixture in the following manner:
Turn off the atomizing pressure. Set the paint tank pressure so that when the trigger is fully depressed the paint stream will travel about two feet. Set the atomizing pressure at a approximately 10X the PSI of the paint tank pressure or enough to completely atomize the coating. If there is no gauge for cup pressure, set the atomizing pressure to a maximum of 44 PSI. For other types of guns, follow the manufacturer's instructions for high solids, water-based coatings.

Keep the gun at a constant 6" - 8" away from the project. Release the trigger at the end of each stroke. Then, depress the trigger and overlap the previous pass by about 1/3. Continue in this fashion for consistent coverage. When the surface is fully and evenly covered, let dry for 30-45 minutes and then repeat the procedure for the second and final coat of Reflective coat.

Finish coat: Screen Goo Finish coat will not require thinning. Follow the same procedure as for the Reflective coat but allow 45-60 minutes drying time between the two coats of topcoat.

Maintenance and Cleaning of a Screen Goo Coated Surface:

A Screen Goo finish is very matte and such finishes are, by nature, porous. This means they hold dirt more aggressively than semi-gloss or gloss surfaces. Care should be taken to keep the surface dust and dirt free. Matte surfaces can be damaged by forceful scrubbing and abrasives of any kind should never be used.

Should your screen surface require cleaning beyond keeping it dust-free, these are the steps to follow:

  1. Vacuum the surface using a soft brush attachment, removing any dust and debris.

  2. Prepare a bucket of warm, mildly soapy water. A tablespoon of dish soap in a 5 gallon bucket is suggested.

  3. Using a soft, well-wrung sponge, to avoid any drips, gently daub and rub any sticky dirt off the surface.

  4. Still avoiding drips, gently sponge wash the entire surface.

  5. Using a bucket of clean water and a fresh, well-wrung sponge, rinse the the surface of any remaining soap residue.

  6. Dry the surface with soft, lint-free cloths. Gently daub the rinse water off the surface, again avoiding scrubbing.